By LAURA GROSS-HIGGINS
Apples are among the oldest fruits cultivated by man. Despite the saying, “As American as apple pie,” apples originated in a mountainous area of Central Asia, in what we now call Kazakhstan, in a variety called Malus sieversii. Early humans gathered these to eat. Then, during the time of the Silk Road, these Asian apple seeds were spread to Europe by both travelers and traders.
In Europe, the Asian trees cross-pollinated with local crabapples. Then the Romans perfected the art of grafting trees and grew larger, sweeter fruit, and the apple was on its journey to what it is today.
So how did the apple come to America? European colonists brought both the fruit and its seeds here in the 17th century. And John Chapman (Johnny Appleseed) was also instrumental in the spread of the fruit in this country.
There are so many expressions that reference apples. Besides the one seen in the headline on this article, how about “The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree” or “How do you like them apples?”
But I digress. I like apples. We are lucky on the Upper Cape to be able to pick apples in the fall at Crow Farm in Sandwich. Or in Falmouth, you can go to Tony Andrews Farm or Coonamessett Farm to do the same. On the Lower Cape, Eldredge Farm in Brewster is another apple-picking destination. Off-Cape, there are farms in Acushnet that do the same.
Fall is primetime for fresh apples. When I bake, I often use Macoun, Macintosh or Cortland apples, but if a recipe calls for a specific apple, such as it does in one of the recipes that follow, then that’s what I buy. In fact, it is hard to find Macoun or Cortland in the summer months. The stores seem to have the crisper varieties in stock, the eating apples.
Apples are not only for baking. When I make a chicken salad at home, I add one-half of a diced, peeled medium apple to 2 cups of diced rotisserie chicken, along with half of a medium onion (diced) and one celery stalk (diced). I mix them with mayonnaise and absolutely love the combination.
The recipes included here are for baked goods. I am reviving a recipe that appeared in the paper many years ago. It is from the Museum of Fine Arts Boston cookbook for Swedish Apple Pie. It is simple and delicious.
And more recently, I came across a recipe from The New York Times for something called Szarlotka (Jewish Apple Pie) from Laurel Kratochvila, who adapted it from her book “Dobre Dobre: Baking From Poland and Beyond.” Although it is called pie, it is more of a cake. I fell in love with this cake and I am happy to share it. Lastly, I am including a recipe for apple squares, shared with me by a friend from Fairhaven, Sue Goding.
All three recipes are delicious. I hope you will try them, too.
Szarlotka
(Jewish Apple Pie)
(Adapted from New York Times article by Laurel Kratochvila)
One 9-inch cake
Butter and sugar for the pan
2¼ lbs tart and firm apples (8 to 10 medium apples) such as Granny Smith, Braeburn or Cortland
3 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature
2¼ cups sugar
4 eggs, at room temperature
2 tsps vanilla extract
1/2 tsp kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Vanilla ice cream (optional), for serving
Line the base of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper, then butter the sides and coat with sugar. Heat the oven to 400º degrees, ideally with the convection setting turned on (I don’t have this setting; it still works)
Peel, core and slice the apples into 1½- to 2-inch chunks. Gently pile the apples into the pan, all the way to the top. (You don’t have to pack them tightly.)
In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the butter and 2 cups of the sugar on medium speed until fluffy. Continuing to mix, add the eggs one at a time, then increase the speed to medium-high. Beat for about 5 minutes, until the batter turns a pale yellow. Reduce the speed to low and add the vanilla and salt.
Now add the flour and continue to mix on low speed until the batter is smooth. (It will be thick but pourable.)
Pour the batter over the top of the apples in the pan, covering the top entirely. Use a spatula to smooth the batter to the edges of the pan. If it doesn’t seem like enough batter, don’t worry. It will sink down among the apples as it bakes.
In a small bowl, mix the remaining ¼ cup sugar and the cinnamon, then sprinkle evenly over the szarlotka.
Bake for 15 minutes at 400 degrees, then lower the heat to 350 degrees and continue to bake for another 45 to 55 minutes. The top will be a rich tan color and a knife inserted into the middle will come out clean but wet from the apples. If the top gets too dark, cover loosely with aluminum foil for the rest of the bake.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before sliding a knife around the edge of the cake and undoing the springform sides. Enjoy!
Swedish Apple Pie
(Adapted from “The Fine Arts Cookbook 1”)
Serves 6 to 8
1 egg
3/4 cup sugar
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp vanilla
1 cup chopped apples
1 cup chopped nuts
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Beat egg until lemon-colored, and it forms a ribbon. Blend in the remaining ingredients. Spoon into a greased 9-inch pie plate and bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream or just plain.
Maple Apple Blondies
(Adapted from Sue Goding’s recipe)
2 cups flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
1 cup butter, softened
3 tbsp sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
1½ tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
Apple Filling:
2 large apples, peeled, cored and chopped
2 tbsp maple syrup
1 tbsp butter
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp cinnamon
Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray an 11×7-inch pan with cooking spray. Cook apple filling on medium-low and heat for 3 to 4 minutes.
Blondies:
Cream butter. Add both sugars and mix until combined. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each. Add salt, cinnamon and vanilla.
Mix together flour and baking powder and add to the wet ingredients. Stir to combine.
Press half of the flour mixture into the prepared pan. Spread the apple filling on top. Spread the remaining flour mixture on top as evenly as possible. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes.